Sewing defect/Sewing Quality.

Tn Garments production sewing one of the vital issue. Without sewing you cannot make a garments. So we need to know about sewing quality/ sewing defect.According to International Organization for Standardization (ISO), “Quality is the fulfillment of the specified requirements for a product or service”.

In process Inspection procedure

Full garment manufacturing process is divided into three parts and these are Front, Back & Assemble. Three quality inspectors are assigned for those three parts. They visit their each operator and check quality. They take seven/Eight pieces from every bundle and check SPI measurement and defects. If they get any fault they reject the whole bundle. They note faults and issue red cards and that operator goes under follow-up for next three bundles except running one. Then the operator has to check the running bundle fully and if get any fault she/she repair those. And the operator has to complete his/her duty very sincerely.

End line audit procedure

End line auditor audit QI passed garments every hour. At first auditor check the measurement of two pieces garments of each size according to specification sheet and auditor note his measurement. Then auditor take eight pieces of garments hourly from QI passed garments for checking faults and make audit report where the auditor mentioned faults and checked garments send to wash.

So, before washing a garment  inspected for 5 times. They are…

1. Front part inspection
2. Back part inspection
3. Inspection after assembly 
4. Quality inspection
5. Output inspection

Some seam defect during sewing:

1. Distortion

 Causes

1. Incorrect handling
2. Incorrect machine setting
3. Poor machine maintenance
4. Incorrect needle & thread size.

 Results: Stretched, puckered, twisted seam, unwanted sewing & tack.

2. Skipped stitch

 Causes

1. Needle eye is too large
2. Mostly occur when change are made of fabric, needle & thread.

3. Seam grain

 Causes

1. Occurs due to insufficient tension on sewing thread.
2. Due to much tension seam failure, excess thread breakage & skipped stitch.

4. Broken stitch

 Causes

1. Needle heat, insufficient plies security.
2. Defective machine parts adjustment.
3. Subsequent treatment of finishing product such as- stone wash.

5. Seam slippage

 Causes

1. Occurs mainly in filament yarn fabric as they have smooth slick surface.
2. And also occurs loose structured fabric.
3. Seam width is very less & SPI is not correct.  

6. Seam puckering 

 Causes:

1. Improper tension of sewing thread.
2. When bottom layer of fabric faster than top layer then pucker is occurs.

Other defects are:

Open seam
Run off stitch
Raw edge
Needle cut Over stitching
Incorrect SPI Slanted
High-Low Incorrect measurement
Missing operation Uncut thread
Gathering Stitches looseness
Hem twisting Uneven / Gap
Pleat etc